PREracing service rates

Shop labor rates
Hourly Service Fee: $89/hr
1hr minimum on ALL jobs
Repairs and service generally quoted at book rate. (some restrictions apply)
Typical misc shop supplies charge $6/hr

Specialty shop rates
Welding and fabrication: $89/hr plus welding supplies
Corner balancing: $200 with fully adjustable suspension
Corner re-balancing: $150
Specialty repair and service quoted subjectively on a per job basis

Dyno Rates & Tuning
Dyno rental: $95/hr
Dyno baseline pulls: 4 pulls no changes - $65 includes hp, tq, boost, and afr printouts
All stand-alone EMS (AEM, Halltec, Hydra, etc): $150/hr minimum $400 first tune and minimum $200 for retune and touch-up
SAFC & DTEC fuel Tune: $200
Dial in timing on dyno: $150/hr
Dial in camshaft on dyno: $150/hr
Carb jetting: $150/hr (you must supply jets)
Combination tuning (cams, fuel, timing, and/or boost): $150/hr

Model specific tuning rates

Subaru WRX/STI 02+
OS Tune: $400, retune $200
Launch Control: $65
Cobb ProTune: $400, retune $200

Mitsubishi Evolution
OS Tune: $400, retune $200

Nissan R35 GTR
Cobb ProTune: $650, retune $300

SCT Custom Tunes
Ford Mustang: $350-450, retune: $200-350
Ford Lightning: $350-450, retune: $200-350
Other Ford products: $650, retune $200-350

Diablosport Custom Tunes
All Dodge, Ford, and Chevy supported vehicles: $400-600
Retunes: $200-$350

The tune prices listed above are a general price outline. Most tunes for the listed applications fall within those guidelines but all tune prices are subject to change on a case-by-case basis determined by the staff at PREracing. Tune fees do not include any additional shop parts or labor required to complete the tune. PREracing can refuse any tune or stop tuning a car at any point if they feel there is a condition which is unsafe for the car, shop equipment, or any person. Customers are still responsible for any tune fees even if a tune is uncompleted due to mechanical issues or unsafe conditions.

What to do before you bring your car in for a tune:

Air Leaks - The number one thing we fight when tuning cars is air/vacuum/boost leaks. Before bringing your car in for a tuning appointment be sure that all vacuum lines are tight and in good condition. Performance Race Engineering can do a simple smoke test which pressurizes your entire intake/pcv system with penetrating smoke that will aid in finding any leaks. Once any leaks are corrected tuning can begin.

Spark plugs are another often overlooked item when tuning a car. Plugs are the final step in the combustion process and are ultimately what decides if you get a full combustion. We recommend the NGK or Denso Iridium spark plugs for all cars we tune. Be sure to check your vehicle specific application guide to see what plug and what temperature range you need for your car. Remember that the factory plug gap is designed to run a factory car. Chances are if you are tuning your car it is no longer factory so be sure to gap your plugs accordingly. Typical gap for a car running 15psi is .030in cars running higher boost levels may require gaps down to as low as .015in. Ignition system upgrades will allow you to open the spark gap up more but that is an entirely different discussion. We carry NGK Iridium and Denso Iridium plugs in stock for most common applications we tune and we can install them for you prior to your tuning appointment.

Fuel quality is very important when tuning a car. Always bring your car to the dyno with the exact fuel mixture you plan to run. If you usually buy your gas in Oregon at a Chevron next to your house it only makes sense to tune the car on that gas. In general, try to pick a fuel station that has a separate pump nozzles for each octane fuel they sell. This will help you get the most consistent fuel in your vehicle. In general we recommend our customers stay away from any fuel additives or octane boosters. Fuel consumption will vary depending on your cars fuel delivery system, overall horsepower, and tuning time so be sure to fill your tank before bringing the car in for a tune.

Tires are also important from a safety standpoint. We cannot run studded tires on the metal rollers. Be sure all your tires are in good condition and are inflated to the factory recommended psi. Tires that are underinflated or damaged can cause serious damage to your car, our dyno, and to anyone standing near or around the car. A tire failure on the dyno could potentially be lethal so please be sure your tires are in good condition. We absolutely will not dyno a car with studded tires, tires with metal cords showing, tires with screws/nails/staples in them, or tires with any visible damage.

Check all your fluids before putting your car on the dyno. Should be a no-brainer but roughly 10% of the cars that go on the dyno are low on oil to begin with.

The dynamometer simulates road conditions and is no harder on your car than what you will encounter naturally on the street. The only reason a car will ever blow up on the dyno is from a mechanical failure. The reason for the failure can be many things but it is never from the dyno itself. In over 23,000 dyno runs logged on our dyno there has been about 0.002% rate of major mechanical failure.